The arroz negro and a selection of dishes from Acamaya, New Orleans (photos by James Collier/Acamaya)
Acamaya, New Orleans
review by Paul Oswell
Something immediately feels different as you walk into Acamaya, the new Bywater seafood restaurant that opened in July 2024 (just a couple of weeks before this review). I wondered if it was that I knew the building in its previous incarnation, but a server helpfully tells me that the site was pretty derelict until the renovation began.
It’s completely jammed with eager diners on a Friday night, but given that it’s the first venture from James Beard Award-nominated Chef Ana Castro (formerly of Lengua Madre and opened in partnership with her sister Lydia), and people are understandably keen to see the place, that’s not it, either.
Restaurants love touting “new dining concepts”, even though when you break it down, it’s still sitting at a table, ordering food from a menu which is then brought out to you. Acamaya doesn’t need such idle boasts, it just immediately feels different to most places in town. I later learn that it’s because the Castros have taken intentional strides to recreate the particular ambiance and aesthetics of a Mexico City restaurant, a place that I have never been, which explains the novelty.
If this is how dining out is in Mexico City, book me a ticket, please. While I wait for your email confirmation of my flight, the spirit of the destination is alive and well at 3070 Dauphine Street. It’s an unabashed celebration of Mexican culture that exudes authenticity. No tacky, ersatz baubles on the walls; instead, Team Castro brought bespoke interior elements all the way from the Mexican capital - everything from the crockery and flatware, to the chairs and light fixtures.
The ultra-tasteful, matte-black tiling and golden, low-level lighting complete a sleek, contemporary dining room that challenges your perception of what a Mexican restaurant in the United States can be. It’s a relatively large space with tables of all sizes, placed perfectly to create a buzzy, intimate atmosphere without feeling crammed, and it feels high end without the pretensions or stuffiness. All of this is before we even get to the food.
No tired old “small plates for sharing” tyranny here. The dinner menu divides itself into simple Hot and Cold sections, your servers happily able to assist on plate sizes. Our party dived into the cold selection with alacrity: crab claws with salsa verde asada and candy cane peppers, the aguachile verde with beefy gulf shrimp, and a memorable hamachi ‘al pastor’ tostada with acidity-cutting pineapple…all gone in a chaotic frenzy.
Our hot selections maintained the adventurous spirit. Octopus comes out with walnut salsa negra, the familiarity of carne asada given a fresh makeover with flank steak and salsa borracha, a savory mix of tomatoes, garlic, jalapeños, and Mexican beer. The star turn, though, has to be the arroz negro, replete with squid and mussels, and embellished by huitlacoche - a type of (and stay with me here) fungus sometimes known as ‘zombie corn’ that brings earthy, smokey tones to the mix.
The mescal and pineapple Al Pastor Swizzle was a particular favorite cocktail, and desserts are pared down to two extremely well-executed options. The flan showcases tonka beans with their vanilla, honey, and almond notes, and of course, there’s an expertly-rendered Masa Tres Leches, with tropical guava and lime.
It’s very apparent how much thought has gone into this restaurant. A glossary on the menu cuts down on questions and makes for more efficient service, and given that the place has only been up and running for weeks at the time of writing, it felt like the logistic choreography and inner workings were all online and locked in.
Acamaya is the Castro’s love letter to two cities: a glowing tribute to the cultural heritage of their beloved Mexico City, and a clear statement of culinary intent to their new home, New Orleans. They stick both landings with equal parts style, flair, and a tangible excitement for welcoming diners - a refreshing difference in itself.
Acamaya is open Thursday to Monday, 5pm-9.30pm at 3070 Dauphine St, New Orleans
review by Paul Oswell
Something immediately feels different as you walk into Acamaya, the new Bywater seafood restaurant that opened in July 2024 (just a couple of weeks before this review). I wondered if it was that I knew the building in its previous incarnation, but a server helpfully tells me that the site was pretty derelict until the renovation began.
It’s completely jammed with eager diners on a Friday night, but given that it’s the first venture from James Beard Award-nominated Chef Ana Castro (formerly of Lengua Madre and opened in partnership with her sister Lydia), and people are understandably keen to see the place, that’s not it, either.
Restaurants love touting “new dining concepts”, even though when you break it down, it’s still sitting at a table, ordering food from a menu which is then brought out to you. Acamaya doesn’t need such idle boasts, it just immediately feels different to most places in town. I later learn that it’s because the Castros have taken intentional strides to recreate the particular ambiance and aesthetics of a Mexico City restaurant, a place that I have never been, which explains the novelty.
If this is how dining out is in Mexico City, book me a ticket, please. While I wait for your email confirmation of my flight, the spirit of the destination is alive and well at 3070 Dauphine Street. It’s an unabashed celebration of Mexican culture that exudes authenticity. No tacky, ersatz baubles on the walls; instead, Team Castro brought bespoke interior elements all the way from the Mexican capital - everything from the crockery and flatware, to the chairs and light fixtures.
The ultra-tasteful, matte-black tiling and golden, low-level lighting complete a sleek, contemporary dining room that challenges your perception of what a Mexican restaurant in the United States can be. It’s a relatively large space with tables of all sizes, placed perfectly to create a buzzy, intimate atmosphere without feeling crammed, and it feels high end without the pretensions or stuffiness. All of this is before we even get to the food.
No tired old “small plates for sharing” tyranny here. The dinner menu divides itself into simple Hot and Cold sections, your servers happily able to assist on plate sizes. Our party dived into the cold selection with alacrity: crab claws with salsa verde asada and candy cane peppers, the aguachile verde with beefy gulf shrimp, and a memorable hamachi ‘al pastor’ tostada with acidity-cutting pineapple…all gone in a chaotic frenzy.
Our hot selections maintained the adventurous spirit. Octopus comes out with walnut salsa negra, the familiarity of carne asada given a fresh makeover with flank steak and salsa borracha, a savory mix of tomatoes, garlic, jalapeños, and Mexican beer. The star turn, though, has to be the arroz negro, replete with squid and mussels, and embellished by huitlacoche - a type of (and stay with me here) fungus sometimes known as ‘zombie corn’ that brings earthy, smokey tones to the mix.
The mescal and pineapple Al Pastor Swizzle was a particular favorite cocktail, and desserts are pared down to two extremely well-executed options. The flan showcases tonka beans with their vanilla, honey, and almond notes, and of course, there’s an expertly-rendered Masa Tres Leches, with tropical guava and lime.
It’s very apparent how much thought has gone into this restaurant. A glossary on the menu cuts down on questions and makes for more efficient service, and given that the place has only been up and running for weeks at the time of writing, it felt like the logistic choreography and inner workings were all online and locked in.
Acamaya is the Castro’s love letter to two cities: a glowing tribute to the cultural heritage of their beloved Mexico City, and a clear statement of culinary intent to their new home, New Orleans. They stick both landings with equal parts style, flair, and a tangible excitement for welcoming diners - a refreshing difference in itself.
Acamaya is open Thursday to Monday, 5pm-9.30pm at 3070 Dauphine St, New Orleans