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COMPERE LAPIN, NEW ORLEANS: REVIEW

compere lapin, nina Compton, New Orleans, restaurant review

compere lapin, new orleans: review

Review by Paul Oswell

*The Michelin Guide highlights noteworthy cuisine—dining experiences that stand out for creativity, consistency, and craftsmanshipthrough its Michelin-recognized awards. These eateries are celebrated for outstanding quality, warm service, and affordability. Compere Lapin was recognized by Michelin in 2025.*

(This review of Compere Lapin was written in 2019)

Few restaurants can claim digs in a former chandlery. But that's the case for Compère Lapin, part of boutique hotel The Old 77, which boasts exposed brickwork and looming wooden beams. The atmosphere is buzzy, with an intimate bar up front and a cozy-knit collection of tables in back.

Though its name might suggest a traditional French-Creole joint, the food at Compère Lapin is predominantly Caribbean, a relative rarity in this city. Cue a crowd of curious foodies that want to go beyond the usual gumbo and jambalaya. Ages are mixed, but visitors tend to be well-dressed and just off work.

The well-thought-out cocktail program is one of the city’s best and most exciting. Even if the restaurant is slow, there’s usually a full complement of drinkers at the bar. The fresh-made frozen drinks are a particular favorite. The wine list is impressively expansive for a restaurant of this size.

Executive chef Nina Compton infuses classic New Orleans cuisine with flavors of her hometown on the island of St. Lucia. Chilled shrimp, coconut curry, and tostones kick off the starters alongside roasted banana zeppoles and rum caramel, with hearty options such as goat bolognese and coconut French toast (slathered in a pecan rum sauce, no less) heading up the mains.

The dining room is casual and friendly. Servers crack smiles under pressure, and are happy to field questions about menu items. Overall, Compton sticks to her vision with admirable, uncompromising aplomb. Her restaurant is all the better for it.
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  • Home
  • Out
    • Culture >
      • Classically Untrained: Art Music From New Orleans
      • Music from New Oreans
      • Comedy in New Orleans
      • Visual Arts in New Orleans: Features
    • Food and Drink
    • Attractions
    • Hotels
    • Essential Guides
  • Diary
  • News
  • People
  • Travel
  • Video
  • Visitors' Guide
  • About