Spanish fry: An entree at Costera
Costera
New Orleans enthusiastically celebrates its French heritage, but sometimes neglects its Spanish influences. Not so at this unassuming spot Uptown. Behind a nondescript door, a medium-sized dining room opens up that marries industrial and rustic aesthetics, with a pleasing buzz of conversation and an equally welcome whiff of patatas bravas setting the scene.
The crowd was a cross-section of locals. Looking around, it’s mostly people pleased that there’s a restaurant doing actual Spanish cuisine, and by the look of things, over-ordering for the table as they attempt to take in as many flavors as possible.
In a world where every restaurant offers ‘tapas-style dishes for sharing’, it’s refreshing to go to a place that serves actual tapas. Kickstart your appetite with a bowl of citrus and vermouth-marinated olives while you take in the menu. The dishes range from the rustic simplicity of pan con tomate with a pleasingly pungent roasted garlic aioli, up to a sophisticated braised lamb shank that luxuriates in salsa verde and manchego.
The flavors are unswervingly authentic, from the delectable shrimp and chorizo soup to the perfectly savory jamon iberico and the simple but irresistible octopus a la plancha. Bring as many friends as you can so that you can sample as much of the menu as possible is my main piece of advice.
The wine list is a delight if your taste sways towards French and Iberian wines. Tempranillo, Syrah and Garnacha mingle with Chenin and Albariño in a knockout Continental presentation. You really can’t go wrong, even at the budget end of the list. There’s a full bar as well, but honestly, with a group of friends and a couple of bottles, it’s hard to imagine wanting much more.
It felt as though the staff—amenable and knowledgeable to the last—knew that they were part of a special restaurant. When the menu and wine list are this good, there’s a subtle confidence exuded by the servers and sommeliers. It’s casual and accessible, and the servers are friendly because they know, deep down, that they’ll be seeing you again.
The short story is this: assemble as many people as you think it might take to tackle 30 plates of authentic tapas and head there with all haste. Head there anyway, even if you’re a couple or on your own, and do the best you can. It’s an experience that will transport you to Madrid, Barcelona or Valencia, and as for the plate sharing…well, that’s up to you and your conscience.
Paul Oswell
READ OUR INTERVIEW WITH COSTERA CHEF DE CUISINE, KATHRYN SEARCY
Costera website
New Orleans enthusiastically celebrates its French heritage, but sometimes neglects its Spanish influences. Not so at this unassuming spot Uptown. Behind a nondescript door, a medium-sized dining room opens up that marries industrial and rustic aesthetics, with a pleasing buzz of conversation and an equally welcome whiff of patatas bravas setting the scene.
The crowd was a cross-section of locals. Looking around, it’s mostly people pleased that there’s a restaurant doing actual Spanish cuisine, and by the look of things, over-ordering for the table as they attempt to take in as many flavors as possible.
In a world where every restaurant offers ‘tapas-style dishes for sharing’, it’s refreshing to go to a place that serves actual tapas. Kickstart your appetite with a bowl of citrus and vermouth-marinated olives while you take in the menu. The dishes range from the rustic simplicity of pan con tomate with a pleasingly pungent roasted garlic aioli, up to a sophisticated braised lamb shank that luxuriates in salsa verde and manchego.
The flavors are unswervingly authentic, from the delectable shrimp and chorizo soup to the perfectly savory jamon iberico and the simple but irresistible octopus a la plancha. Bring as many friends as you can so that you can sample as much of the menu as possible is my main piece of advice.
The wine list is a delight if your taste sways towards French and Iberian wines. Tempranillo, Syrah and Garnacha mingle with Chenin and Albariño in a knockout Continental presentation. You really can’t go wrong, even at the budget end of the list. There’s a full bar as well, but honestly, with a group of friends and a couple of bottles, it’s hard to imagine wanting much more.
It felt as though the staff—amenable and knowledgeable to the last—knew that they were part of a special restaurant. When the menu and wine list are this good, there’s a subtle confidence exuded by the servers and sommeliers. It’s casual and accessible, and the servers are friendly because they know, deep down, that they’ll be seeing you again.
The short story is this: assemble as many people as you think it might take to tackle 30 plates of authentic tapas and head there with all haste. Head there anyway, even if you’re a couple or on your own, and do the best you can. It’s an experience that will transport you to Madrid, Barcelona or Valencia, and as for the plate sharing…well, that’s up to you and your conscience.
Paul Oswell
READ OUR INTERVIEW WITH COSTERA CHEF DE CUISINE, KATHRYN SEARCY
Costera website