Chef Nicole Cabrera Mills, Chef de Cuisine at Pêche Seafood Grill (photos: Pêche Seafood Grill)
Welcome In: Chef Nicole Cabrera Mills
Interview by Paul Oswell
Chef Nicole Cabrera Mills of Pêche Seafood Grill was recently announced as one of Food & Wine's Best New Chefs of 2024. The honor recognizes Nicole as one of the most talented up-and-coming chefs in the country, with F&W's Best New Chefs class playing a part in shaping the landscape of American cuisine for the past 36 years. We caught up with Chef, and talked about the foods and experiences that shaped her, meals that she'll always remember and a very mysterious dish called 'basilog'. Read on to find out more about this rising star of the New Orleans restaurant scene.
Out All Day: Hi Chef, thank you so much for talking to us! Could you quickly introduce yourself? Where do you work/what's your position or title and how long have you been there?
Nicole Cabrera Mills: Hello! My name is Nicole Cabrera Mills. I am the Chef de Cuisine at Pêche. I've been working at Pêche for 11 years, and I've been the CDC since 2019.
Many congratulations on the award, that must be incredibly satisfying. How has it been since the news broke?
The support has been overwhelming.
Tell us a little more about your work at Pêche. Would you say there's a philosophy or concept behind the restaurant (or your work in particular)?
Pêche is a restaurant that focuses on Gulf seafood. We also buy a lot of farm produce so the menu is driven by what's available locally. We change the menu constantly based on what's in season. I go big on vegetable sides. I am from the Philippines so my background combined with southern ingredients influences the menu.
Let's go back...what are your earliest memories of making meals or being around food being prepared?
My mother baking fruit cakes and pili cookies for Christmas. This was her side hustle and I remember her creaming the sugar and butter in a large mixing bowl by hand. My dad steaming Lapu-Lapu (our local grouper) in oyster sauce with ginger and green onions and pouring hot sesame oil on it. This was his special Sunday meal. My grandmother making her special secret family recipe for Callos on Christmas day. I'm fortunate to have a lot of food memories.
Was there a decisive moment that made you think: "I can go professional!"? How did you feel when you made that life choice?
I wanted to drop out of college and go to culinary school but my parents wouldn't allow it. After I graduated, I decided to go to the French Culinary Institute in Soho.
Where did you learn your trade? Who were your early inspirations or mentors?
I worked at many great restaurants in New York. This is where I received most of my training. I worked at Eleven Madison Park, The Modern, Atelier, and the Core Club with Dan Kluger.
Having lived here for so long, how do you feel that the New Orleans food scene has changed over the years?
The food scene has definitely evolved. There are a lot of restaurants that do fun eclectic flavors. There is a better variety when it comes to food, dining and style of dining. This makes the diners more open to newer flavors.
Do you spend a lot of time experimenting when you're not working? Do you try out areas of cuisine that you're not traditionally associated with or that you're less familiar with?
Yes, I cook a lot at home. I also like to draw inspiration from other cuisines and other restaurants.
Time to name some names. Where do you like to go for fancy feasts, casual bites, cocktails and a post-shift beer/wind down?
Acamaya is so unique and wonderful. I had a fantastic meal at Emeril's last week. I gravitate towards sushi or Japanese food so I go to Sukeban and Yakuza house a lot. For cocktails I love Jewel of the South.
What's the most memorable eating experience you've ever had? Michelin starred joint, hole in the wall secret, family celebration?
I have a few. Sushi Seki omakase many years ago. Uncle Boon's in New York before they closed. Jean Georges in New York. In Beaune, France, I had a life-changing meal at Le Bistro de L'Hotel. In Barcelona at Bodega 1900 before they closed.
You're at home. Maybe you've had a couple of cocktails, maybe you're feeling lazy, maybe you need some quick comfort. What are you making away from the public glare? Give us your guiltiest, messiest pleasures and don't skip any gory details.
We call it "basilog", which is short for bacon, sinangag (fried garlic rice) and itlog (fried egg) or I'll heat up a bowl of ramen, add some nori, sliced pork, and an egg.
Where are your favourite food cities outside of New Orleans?
New York, San Francisco, Houston
Are you a big produce/farmers' market person? Do you go out and source ingredients yourself? Do you grow your own herbs, spices or produce?
Yes, but we are fortunate enough to not have to trek to the farmers' market in person. We buy such large quantities for Pêche, so they usually drop off produce to us. My husband grows a variety of herbs and chilies. Pêche uses curry leaves, bird's eye chilies and lime leaves from our backyard. My husband has an abundance of cilantro, basil and mint year round, so we use it all the time in our meals.
You have an unlimited budget for a private chef-catered meal for you and your loved ones. Who's cooking (anyone at all - contemporary/historic/fictional), what are they serving and where are you eating (doesn't have to be a restaurant)?
Jacques Pepin at his house. I would love to see his garden and his art work.
I love food movies: Big Night, Eat Drink Man Woman, Pig, anything with Julia Childs...what are some of your favourite foodie films or TV shows?
The Menu.
How else do you relax, besides getting as much sleep as possible?
I try to run or swim every morning. I like to sit by the pool and read in my free time.
OK, leave us with one kitchen tip that you swear by.
I put vinegar on everything.
You can experience Chef Nikki's talents at Pêche Seafood Grill, 800 Magazine St. Click here for their website.
Interview by Paul Oswell
Chef Nicole Cabrera Mills of Pêche Seafood Grill was recently announced as one of Food & Wine's Best New Chefs of 2024. The honor recognizes Nicole as one of the most talented up-and-coming chefs in the country, with F&W's Best New Chefs class playing a part in shaping the landscape of American cuisine for the past 36 years. We caught up with Chef, and talked about the foods and experiences that shaped her, meals that she'll always remember and a very mysterious dish called 'basilog'. Read on to find out more about this rising star of the New Orleans restaurant scene.
Out All Day: Hi Chef, thank you so much for talking to us! Could you quickly introduce yourself? Where do you work/what's your position or title and how long have you been there?
Nicole Cabrera Mills: Hello! My name is Nicole Cabrera Mills. I am the Chef de Cuisine at Pêche. I've been working at Pêche for 11 years, and I've been the CDC since 2019.
Many congratulations on the award, that must be incredibly satisfying. How has it been since the news broke?
The support has been overwhelming.
Tell us a little more about your work at Pêche. Would you say there's a philosophy or concept behind the restaurant (or your work in particular)?
Pêche is a restaurant that focuses on Gulf seafood. We also buy a lot of farm produce so the menu is driven by what's available locally. We change the menu constantly based on what's in season. I go big on vegetable sides. I am from the Philippines so my background combined with southern ingredients influences the menu.
Let's go back...what are your earliest memories of making meals or being around food being prepared?
My mother baking fruit cakes and pili cookies for Christmas. This was her side hustle and I remember her creaming the sugar and butter in a large mixing bowl by hand. My dad steaming Lapu-Lapu (our local grouper) in oyster sauce with ginger and green onions and pouring hot sesame oil on it. This was his special Sunday meal. My grandmother making her special secret family recipe for Callos on Christmas day. I'm fortunate to have a lot of food memories.
Was there a decisive moment that made you think: "I can go professional!"? How did you feel when you made that life choice?
I wanted to drop out of college and go to culinary school but my parents wouldn't allow it. After I graduated, I decided to go to the French Culinary Institute in Soho.
Where did you learn your trade? Who were your early inspirations or mentors?
I worked at many great restaurants in New York. This is where I received most of my training. I worked at Eleven Madison Park, The Modern, Atelier, and the Core Club with Dan Kluger.
Having lived here for so long, how do you feel that the New Orleans food scene has changed over the years?
The food scene has definitely evolved. There are a lot of restaurants that do fun eclectic flavors. There is a better variety when it comes to food, dining and style of dining. This makes the diners more open to newer flavors.
Do you spend a lot of time experimenting when you're not working? Do you try out areas of cuisine that you're not traditionally associated with or that you're less familiar with?
Yes, I cook a lot at home. I also like to draw inspiration from other cuisines and other restaurants.
Time to name some names. Where do you like to go for fancy feasts, casual bites, cocktails and a post-shift beer/wind down?
Acamaya is so unique and wonderful. I had a fantastic meal at Emeril's last week. I gravitate towards sushi or Japanese food so I go to Sukeban and Yakuza house a lot. For cocktails I love Jewel of the South.
What's the most memorable eating experience you've ever had? Michelin starred joint, hole in the wall secret, family celebration?
I have a few. Sushi Seki omakase many years ago. Uncle Boon's in New York before they closed. Jean Georges in New York. In Beaune, France, I had a life-changing meal at Le Bistro de L'Hotel. In Barcelona at Bodega 1900 before they closed.
You're at home. Maybe you've had a couple of cocktails, maybe you're feeling lazy, maybe you need some quick comfort. What are you making away from the public glare? Give us your guiltiest, messiest pleasures and don't skip any gory details.
We call it "basilog", which is short for bacon, sinangag (fried garlic rice) and itlog (fried egg) or I'll heat up a bowl of ramen, add some nori, sliced pork, and an egg.
Where are your favourite food cities outside of New Orleans?
New York, San Francisco, Houston
Are you a big produce/farmers' market person? Do you go out and source ingredients yourself? Do you grow your own herbs, spices or produce?
Yes, but we are fortunate enough to not have to trek to the farmers' market in person. We buy such large quantities for Pêche, so they usually drop off produce to us. My husband grows a variety of herbs and chilies. Pêche uses curry leaves, bird's eye chilies and lime leaves from our backyard. My husband has an abundance of cilantro, basil and mint year round, so we use it all the time in our meals.
You have an unlimited budget for a private chef-catered meal for you and your loved ones. Who's cooking (anyone at all - contemporary/historic/fictional), what are they serving and where are you eating (doesn't have to be a restaurant)?
Jacques Pepin at his house. I would love to see his garden and his art work.
I love food movies: Big Night, Eat Drink Man Woman, Pig, anything with Julia Childs...what are some of your favourite foodie films or TV shows?
The Menu.
How else do you relax, besides getting as much sleep as possible?
I try to run or swim every morning. I like to sit by the pool and read in my free time.
OK, leave us with one kitchen tip that you swear by.
I put vinegar on everything.
You can experience Chef Nikki's talents at Pêche Seafood Grill, 800 Magazine St. Click here for their website.