LILLY'S CAFE, NEW ORLEANS: RESTAURANT REVIEW
Pho better, not worse: the food at Lilly's Cafe, New Orleans
nice pad
lilly's cafe, new orleans
Review by Paul Oswell
I’ve wanged on about my love of Asian food before, and I think it was some wildly misplaced snobbery on my part that I hadn’t explored more of the city’s offerings in this arena. When friends suggested meeting at Lilly’s Cafe on the 1800 block of Magazine Street, I jumped at the chance, and spent most of the meal trying to work out why I'd been so cynical about it.
Its position as winner in The Gambit’s 2024 ‘Best Of The City’ awards should have been a sign I was missing out, as should the dozens of friends that have recommended the place.
Lilly’s is genuinely cozy – all character and warmth, the kind of spot that patently doesn't need to try too hard because it's already earned a wall's worth of awards. There’s that Gambit ‘Best Of’, Yelp recognition, the whole kit and kaboodle. You can immediately tell this isn't some shallow, Insta-bait operation; it's a kitchen that got very good at doing what it does.
There’s nothing overly elaborate or fancy, and Lilly’s nails the staples. The Vietnamese iced coffee is creamy, flavorful, and grilled chicken and veggie spring rolls come out fresh and perfectly wrapped. My friend's pho’s (one spicy shrimp, one brisket) were both excellent. The broth was actually balanced rather than an assault of salt, the noodles achieved the ideal texture, and the protein ratios didn't feel stingy. I got the spicy pork with rice, which was flavorful and not overly hot - I could actually have stood it a little more picante. A minor quibble in an otherwise stellar meal.
I’ve heard that Lilly herself will oftentimes come out and check on the dining experience, but sadly we weren’t graced with her presence - she’s busy in the kitchen no doubt. Her infectious optimistic energy is widely reported, though, and that spirit definitely elevates things above "a decent lunch". The food is a genuine change from the Southern cuisine that dominates the city, the portions are generous without feeling wasteful, and service was quick despite the place getting increasingly rammed. A deserved Uptown institution, and one I'm gutted about not trying sooner.
Lilly's Cafe, 1813 Magazine St. Open Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm
More New Orleans restaurant reviews
I’ve wanged on about my love of Asian food before, and I think it was some wildly misplaced snobbery on my part that I hadn’t explored more of the city’s offerings in this arena. When friends suggested meeting at Lilly’s Cafe on the 1800 block of Magazine Street, I jumped at the chance, and spent most of the meal trying to work out why I'd been so cynical about it.
Its position as winner in The Gambit’s 2024 ‘Best Of The City’ awards should have been a sign I was missing out, as should the dozens of friends that have recommended the place.
Lilly’s is genuinely cozy – all character and warmth, the kind of spot that patently doesn't need to try too hard because it's already earned a wall's worth of awards. There’s that Gambit ‘Best Of’, Yelp recognition, the whole kit and kaboodle. You can immediately tell this isn't some shallow, Insta-bait operation; it's a kitchen that got very good at doing what it does.
There’s nothing overly elaborate or fancy, and Lilly’s nails the staples. The Vietnamese iced coffee is creamy, flavorful, and grilled chicken and veggie spring rolls come out fresh and perfectly wrapped. My friend's pho’s (one spicy shrimp, one brisket) were both excellent. The broth was actually balanced rather than an assault of salt, the noodles achieved the ideal texture, and the protein ratios didn't feel stingy. I got the spicy pork with rice, which was flavorful and not overly hot - I could actually have stood it a little more picante. A minor quibble in an otherwise stellar meal.
I’ve heard that Lilly herself will oftentimes come out and check on the dining experience, but sadly we weren’t graced with her presence - she’s busy in the kitchen no doubt. Her infectious optimistic energy is widely reported, though, and that spirit definitely elevates things above "a decent lunch". The food is a genuine change from the Southern cuisine that dominates the city, the portions are generous without feeling wasteful, and service was quick despite the place getting increasingly rammed. A deserved Uptown institution, and one I'm gutted about not trying sooner.
Lilly's Cafe, 1813 Magazine St. Open Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm
More New Orleans restaurant reviews