The culinary jackpot: Nobu New Orleans lands as part of the rebranded Caesars casino
Raw talent: Nobu, New Orleans - Review
By Paul Oswell
The steady stream of New Orleans’ gastronomic talent means that the city rarely imports large international chains. Visitors to town looking for dinner options above fast food schlock or the corporate genericism of Hard Rock Cafe, won’t find outposts of, say, Gordon Ramsey or Jamie Oliver.
We have a couple of chain steakhouses and home-grown names of course (see Emeril’s bam-fuelled international reach). We’re more a town of independent properties, unlike franchise-friendly Las Vegas, often touted as a vacation-centric, metropolitan peer of sorts. The rebranding of Harrah’s to Caesars has brought some of that Sin City philosophy with it, though, as fashionable Japanese restaurant Nobu takes up a corner of the refurbished casino.
The surroundings are more upscale, the primary colored gaudiness of Harrah’s toned down with classier golds and creams. Nobu sits just inside the doors, but outside the casino proper. Its dark frontage and dimly-lit dining room are a striking contrast, offering respit from the blinking lights and insistent neon.
If you don’t know the story, Chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa opened his first sushi joint in L.A. in 1987, and his commitment to high quality saw the brand quickly become a global name - there are over 50 Nobi worldwide, plus a boutique hotel brand. New Orleans’ Nobu is typical, with its interior natural textures, subtly chic lighting and large, basket-like structures that create novel, semi-private spaces. Let’s be clear from the get go: this is a high-end experience with prices to match, but I'd argue that the experiential and aesthetic elements really add to the value.
Hearty shouts of “Irasshaimase!” welcome all diners, and we were lead through the surprisingly large dining room to our table. Though not in a basket, the low-level lighting still created a privately intimate ambience.
We began with cold dishes, starting with the decadence of toro tartare with caviar and a Nobu classic, the yellowtail jalapeño, both of which hit the mark. The latter is one of Nobu’s staples, together with the deservedly famous black cod with miso, which we devoured with relish.
Another regular is the rock shrimp tempura, which we did not try, instead plumping for the tempura-fried soft shell crawfish. I don’t think I was even aware of soft shell crawfish. Eating them this way means that at least my sub-par peeling skills aren’t exposed, and the watermelon salad with serrano pepper dressing was a reassuring balance of spice and sweetness.
You won’t find the crawfish in every Nobu, of course - each iteration is given some room on the menu to showcase local produce and flavors. The servers are key to navigating the menu if you’re not a regular, and our guide was infectiously enthused about leading us, backed up by knowledge enough not to be stumped by anything we asked. The restaurant is only a couple of months into operations but the high training standards are obvious.
This is especially evident in the sushi and sashimi that we tried. The cuts are fresh and expertly presented, our server again chipping in with hints about how to maximise the flavors without being overbearing. We finished with a delightful Chocolate Dulce de Leche Beignet, though more than one of our fellow diners went for the show stopping, bourbon-flambéed Baked Alaska.
Unless you’re a hedge fund manager or you just struck big at the casino, Nobu is definitely a special occasion splurge. It’s up there among the city’s priciest spots. I’d argue, though, that the aesthetic and service elements, together with a menu that blends Nobu’s Hall of Fame dishes with unexpected Louisianan delicacies, make for an experience that you won’t quickly forget.
DINNER: Sunday - Thursday 5pm - 10pm, Friday and Saturday 5pm - 11pm
Nobu New Orleans website
By Paul Oswell
The steady stream of New Orleans’ gastronomic talent means that the city rarely imports large international chains. Visitors to town looking for dinner options above fast food schlock or the corporate genericism of Hard Rock Cafe, won’t find outposts of, say, Gordon Ramsey or Jamie Oliver.
We have a couple of chain steakhouses and home-grown names of course (see Emeril’s bam-fuelled international reach). We’re more a town of independent properties, unlike franchise-friendly Las Vegas, often touted as a vacation-centric, metropolitan peer of sorts. The rebranding of Harrah’s to Caesars has brought some of that Sin City philosophy with it, though, as fashionable Japanese restaurant Nobu takes up a corner of the refurbished casino.
The surroundings are more upscale, the primary colored gaudiness of Harrah’s toned down with classier golds and creams. Nobu sits just inside the doors, but outside the casino proper. Its dark frontage and dimly-lit dining room are a striking contrast, offering respit from the blinking lights and insistent neon.
If you don’t know the story, Chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa opened his first sushi joint in L.A. in 1987, and his commitment to high quality saw the brand quickly become a global name - there are over 50 Nobi worldwide, plus a boutique hotel brand. New Orleans’ Nobu is typical, with its interior natural textures, subtly chic lighting and large, basket-like structures that create novel, semi-private spaces. Let’s be clear from the get go: this is a high-end experience with prices to match, but I'd argue that the experiential and aesthetic elements really add to the value.
Hearty shouts of “Irasshaimase!” welcome all diners, and we were lead through the surprisingly large dining room to our table. Though not in a basket, the low-level lighting still created a privately intimate ambience.
We began with cold dishes, starting with the decadence of toro tartare with caviar and a Nobu classic, the yellowtail jalapeño, both of which hit the mark. The latter is one of Nobu’s staples, together with the deservedly famous black cod with miso, which we devoured with relish.
Another regular is the rock shrimp tempura, which we did not try, instead plumping for the tempura-fried soft shell crawfish. I don’t think I was even aware of soft shell crawfish. Eating them this way means that at least my sub-par peeling skills aren’t exposed, and the watermelon salad with serrano pepper dressing was a reassuring balance of spice and sweetness.
You won’t find the crawfish in every Nobu, of course - each iteration is given some room on the menu to showcase local produce and flavors. The servers are key to navigating the menu if you’re not a regular, and our guide was infectiously enthused about leading us, backed up by knowledge enough not to be stumped by anything we asked. The restaurant is only a couple of months into operations but the high training standards are obvious.
This is especially evident in the sushi and sashimi that we tried. The cuts are fresh and expertly presented, our server again chipping in with hints about how to maximise the flavors without being overbearing. We finished with a delightful Chocolate Dulce de Leche Beignet, though more than one of our fellow diners went for the show stopping, bourbon-flambéed Baked Alaska.
Unless you’re a hedge fund manager or you just struck big at the casino, Nobu is definitely a special occasion splurge. It’s up there among the city’s priciest spots. I’d argue, though, that the aesthetic and service elements, together with a menu that blends Nobu’s Hall of Fame dishes with unexpected Louisianan delicacies, make for an experience that you won’t quickly forget.
DINNER: Sunday - Thursday 5pm - 10pm, Friday and Saturday 5pm - 11pm
Nobu New Orleans website
