TRAVEL REVIEW: AMTRAK'S THE CRESCENT ROUTE, NEW ORLEANS TO NEW YORK CITY
REVIEW: Amtrak's The Crescent: New Orleans to New York by train
by Paul Oswell
(a video and photo gallery follow the story)
Maybe it’s because I grew up in England with its age-old rail network, but I’ve always loved train travel. Having moved to the States, I’d long been keen to hop on a multi-state rail journey, so I took the plunge and bought a ticket for the 32-hour trip from New Orleans to New York City. The service is 'The Crescent', running between Union Station, New Orleans and Penn Station in downtown Manhattan. At the time of writing, it was a daily service, leaving at 9.15am in New Orleans and arriving in New York at 6.15pm the next day, a travel time of around 32 hours.
You might balk at the journey length, but I was excited at the prospect of lazing in my cabin, watching the world go by as I read and ate and slept. I’m a man of simple pleasures (for which, read: lazy). Sure, there’d be a slight chance I was romanticizing the experience, but I'm nothing if not a blind optimist, and I was ready to switch off and let the romance of train travel seduce me, or at least swipe right on me before not responding to my text messages.
I arrived at New Orleans station at 8.45am, and was greeted on the platform outside my designated car by an attendant, who ushered me to my cabin. She asked if I wanted to check any luggage. I needed access to mine, so I declined (though this seemed like a good option if two people are traveling in one cabin and would need more space).
The attendant introduced herself, and explained some of the features of the ‘Roomette’ - my home for the next day and a half. We went over how the cabin’s discreetly-hidden, in-room (!) toilet (more on this later) and bunk facilities worked, and she gave me a menu for the meal services (included in the fare). She also pointed out the Cafe Car in case I wanted extra snacks and drinks, as well as the train’s shared shower and bathrooms. One friendly orientation later, I settled back for my first long distance train journey on Amtrak. 9.15am rolled around, and we slowly nosed out of the city.
The first part, just after you leave the city suburbs, is one of the highlights and most scenic parts of the journey. You glide across Lake Pontchartrain on a “trestle”, one of the longest rail bridges in the United States. You can barely see this trestle, and so it feels (and looks) almost as if you’re riding on the water itself. It’s more magical than terrifying, you’ll just have to trust me on that. The train passes through Slidell before crossing the lake and entering Mississippi.
The Roomette
This is the entry-level private cabin on The Crescent. There are some larger options - ‘Rooms’ - that have armchairs, shower and en suite bathroom facilities which would suit a small family, but the Roomettes are designed for two people. Since you buy the entire cabin, if you’re traveling alone, you’ll have it to yourself (like a hotel room). I would say to choose traveling companions with whom you already have a basic level of social intimacy - romantic partners, family members or good friends are the most advisable as the space (around 24sqft) is definitely cosy.
The Crescent is one of Amtrak’s ‘Viewliner’ trains, a single-level railway car. This means that the configuration is two seats, facing each other with a large window for your scenery-viewing pleasure. There are curtains (plus some on the cabin door), and so complete darkness and privacy is possible. The design has a utilitarian feel to it and although it looks slightly dated, it’s robust and functional. Everything worked, with intelligent use of space. It’s very much an analogue set up, with dials, buttons and switches instead of digital controls.
There’s a pull-out table that can be set up in between the seats. It can be stowed while not in use, and there are hooks to hang jackets and coats. Overall, I would say it’s a comfortable, intelligently-designed space that, while not state of the art, feels equipped enough for the 32-hour journey.
In-cabin amenities
The roomette is a sleeper cabin, and so the main draw is its ability to transform from a seating to a sleeping arrangement. This involved pulling down an already-made bunk down from the ceiling. This bed is ready to be laid on. It does require a basic amount of maneuverability, and it’s probably best for more spry travellers, but even my old bones managed to climb up fairly easily. The bottom bunk comes from reclining the seats to their full extent - they slide together to form an equally comfortable (and more accessible) bed. The top bunk has a safety harness that attaches to the side of the bed to ensure that more lively sleepers don’t roll off their perch. I’m 5’8” and the top bunk felt completely comfortable and safe.
Linens, pillows and sheets are provided, stored in a cubby hole on a level with the top bunk. Towels, face cloths, soap and toilet paper are also provided. There’s a pull-out sink with its own mirror for washing and brushing teeth, and one of the side tables/surfaces has a hinged top that reveals a toilet when pulled up. Public toilets are also available if this doesn't appeal - I can see this being a line in the sand for some two-person journeys. There is free wifi available, but its strength and consistency are variable (as it seems to be on all moving vehicles, including planes), and I found that it was more suited to email than streaming movies, so it’s best to come with pre-downloaded or analogue entertainment.
Breakfast, lunch and dinner were included in the fare. The menu was limited but surprisingly esoteric. Breakfast had cereals, yoghurt, oatmeal, muffins and a breakfast sandwich available. Lunch and dinner options included an impressively international spread of entrees, including braised beef, enchiladas, chicken marsala, shrimp in lobster sauce and pasta with meatballs, with brownies for dessert. The Cafe Car was open for the majority of the journey, with extra menu items available (for a charge).
After dinner, it was easy to draw the curtains and transform the cabin into a tranquil, low-lit, environment. The movement of the train and quietness meant that I drifted off in no time, and I spelt easily and without falling off my bed, which could always be a textbook move for me. It’s possible to stretch your legs walking up and down the cars, and the train also makes a couple of longer stops where it’s possible to get out of the train car, get some fresh air and walk up and down the platform for 20 minutes or so - a welcome break for sure.
Scenic highlights
After the Lake Pontchartrain crossing, I wouldn’t say that there are any stunningly dramatic views - not like you’d get on the routes through the Pacific Northwest or along the Californian coast. You do wind through some beautiful sections of the Mississippi countryside, the Blue Ridge foothills and the Appalachian Mountains, and there are dozens of quaint rural towns, so have your camera at the ready during the day. Sunrise and the evening’s golden hour are prime photo time. Trundling into New York City also shows off some striking city skylines.
Summary
Overall, I'd say it was a memorable and positive experience. I loved the privacy and comfort of the sleeper car, SORRY, 'Roomette'. The journey was nothing but smooth, helped by the friendly attendants - and for the record, we arrived on time - almost to the minute - at Penn Station. The meals and general service were all fine and although the cabins are on the older side, it didn’t detract from the comfort. I sank into the tranquility of it all, and I appreciated the stops to stretch my legs and get some fresh air. Obviously there’s a larger time commitment involved in traveling this way, but if your schedule allows for it, it really avoids the stress of flying or the monotony of driving. Any chance I can get to do virtually nothing while calmingly pleasant countryside rolls by is alright with me.
Amtrak website
by Paul Oswell
(a video and photo gallery follow the story)
Maybe it’s because I grew up in England with its age-old rail network, but I’ve always loved train travel. Having moved to the States, I’d long been keen to hop on a multi-state rail journey, so I took the plunge and bought a ticket for the 32-hour trip from New Orleans to New York City. The service is 'The Crescent', running between Union Station, New Orleans and Penn Station in downtown Manhattan. At the time of writing, it was a daily service, leaving at 9.15am in New Orleans and arriving in New York at 6.15pm the next day, a travel time of around 32 hours.
You might balk at the journey length, but I was excited at the prospect of lazing in my cabin, watching the world go by as I read and ate and slept. I’m a man of simple pleasures (for which, read: lazy). Sure, there’d be a slight chance I was romanticizing the experience, but I'm nothing if not a blind optimist, and I was ready to switch off and let the romance of train travel seduce me, or at least swipe right on me before not responding to my text messages.
I arrived at New Orleans station at 8.45am, and was greeted on the platform outside my designated car by an attendant, who ushered me to my cabin. She asked if I wanted to check any luggage. I needed access to mine, so I declined (though this seemed like a good option if two people are traveling in one cabin and would need more space).
The attendant introduced herself, and explained some of the features of the ‘Roomette’ - my home for the next day and a half. We went over how the cabin’s discreetly-hidden, in-room (!) toilet (more on this later) and bunk facilities worked, and she gave me a menu for the meal services (included in the fare). She also pointed out the Cafe Car in case I wanted extra snacks and drinks, as well as the train’s shared shower and bathrooms. One friendly orientation later, I settled back for my first long distance train journey on Amtrak. 9.15am rolled around, and we slowly nosed out of the city.
The first part, just after you leave the city suburbs, is one of the highlights and most scenic parts of the journey. You glide across Lake Pontchartrain on a “trestle”, one of the longest rail bridges in the United States. You can barely see this trestle, and so it feels (and looks) almost as if you’re riding on the water itself. It’s more magical than terrifying, you’ll just have to trust me on that. The train passes through Slidell before crossing the lake and entering Mississippi.
The Roomette
This is the entry-level private cabin on The Crescent. There are some larger options - ‘Rooms’ - that have armchairs, shower and en suite bathroom facilities which would suit a small family, but the Roomettes are designed for two people. Since you buy the entire cabin, if you’re traveling alone, you’ll have it to yourself (like a hotel room). I would say to choose traveling companions with whom you already have a basic level of social intimacy - romantic partners, family members or good friends are the most advisable as the space (around 24sqft) is definitely cosy.
The Crescent is one of Amtrak’s ‘Viewliner’ trains, a single-level railway car. This means that the configuration is two seats, facing each other with a large window for your scenery-viewing pleasure. There are curtains (plus some on the cabin door), and so complete darkness and privacy is possible. The design has a utilitarian feel to it and although it looks slightly dated, it’s robust and functional. Everything worked, with intelligent use of space. It’s very much an analogue set up, with dials, buttons and switches instead of digital controls.
There’s a pull-out table that can be set up in between the seats. It can be stowed while not in use, and there are hooks to hang jackets and coats. Overall, I would say it’s a comfortable, intelligently-designed space that, while not state of the art, feels equipped enough for the 32-hour journey.
In-cabin amenities
The roomette is a sleeper cabin, and so the main draw is its ability to transform from a seating to a sleeping arrangement. This involved pulling down an already-made bunk down from the ceiling. This bed is ready to be laid on. It does require a basic amount of maneuverability, and it’s probably best for more spry travellers, but even my old bones managed to climb up fairly easily. The bottom bunk comes from reclining the seats to their full extent - they slide together to form an equally comfortable (and more accessible) bed. The top bunk has a safety harness that attaches to the side of the bed to ensure that more lively sleepers don’t roll off their perch. I’m 5’8” and the top bunk felt completely comfortable and safe.
Linens, pillows and sheets are provided, stored in a cubby hole on a level with the top bunk. Towels, face cloths, soap and toilet paper are also provided. There’s a pull-out sink with its own mirror for washing and brushing teeth, and one of the side tables/surfaces has a hinged top that reveals a toilet when pulled up. Public toilets are also available if this doesn't appeal - I can see this being a line in the sand for some two-person journeys. There is free wifi available, but its strength and consistency are variable (as it seems to be on all moving vehicles, including planes), and I found that it was more suited to email than streaming movies, so it’s best to come with pre-downloaded or analogue entertainment.
Breakfast, lunch and dinner were included in the fare. The menu was limited but surprisingly esoteric. Breakfast had cereals, yoghurt, oatmeal, muffins and a breakfast sandwich available. Lunch and dinner options included an impressively international spread of entrees, including braised beef, enchiladas, chicken marsala, shrimp in lobster sauce and pasta with meatballs, with brownies for dessert. The Cafe Car was open for the majority of the journey, with extra menu items available (for a charge).
After dinner, it was easy to draw the curtains and transform the cabin into a tranquil, low-lit, environment. The movement of the train and quietness meant that I drifted off in no time, and I spelt easily and without falling off my bed, which could always be a textbook move for me. It’s possible to stretch your legs walking up and down the cars, and the train also makes a couple of longer stops where it’s possible to get out of the train car, get some fresh air and walk up and down the platform for 20 minutes or so - a welcome break for sure.
Scenic highlights
After the Lake Pontchartrain crossing, I wouldn’t say that there are any stunningly dramatic views - not like you’d get on the routes through the Pacific Northwest or along the Californian coast. You do wind through some beautiful sections of the Mississippi countryside, the Blue Ridge foothills and the Appalachian Mountains, and there are dozens of quaint rural towns, so have your camera at the ready during the day. Sunrise and the evening’s golden hour are prime photo time. Trundling into New York City also shows off some striking city skylines.
Summary
Overall, I'd say it was a memorable and positive experience. I loved the privacy and comfort of the sleeper car, SORRY, 'Roomette'. The journey was nothing but smooth, helped by the friendly attendants - and for the record, we arrived on time - almost to the minute - at Penn Station. The meals and general service were all fine and although the cabins are on the older side, it didn’t detract from the comfort. I sank into the tranquility of it all, and I appreciated the stops to stretch my legs and get some fresh air. Obviously there’s a larger time commitment involved in traveling this way, but if your schedule allows for it, it really avoids the stress of flying or the monotony of driving. Any chance I can get to do virtually nothing while calmingly pleasant countryside rolls by is alright with me.
Amtrak website
VIDEO: Gliding across Lake Pontchartrain:
Photo Gallery:
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