PULCINELLA!, NEW ORLEANS: REVIEW
A REVIEW OF PULCINELLA! RESTAURANT IN NEW ORLEANS
Jest in show: some of the best-selling dishes at Pulcinella! (photos from Pulcinella!)
Down to clown: Pulcinella!
Review by Gia Martinez
Pulcinella! is a new Italian restaurant located in the heart of the historic 7th ward in New Orleans, Louisiana. This locally-owned restaurant offers its guests a wide array of home-style Italian dishes with some modern influences. Owners Bella Blue, Andrew Principe, JD Solomon and Executive Chef Matty Hayes have come together to carefully curate this quaint establishment for patrons to enjoy a big, Italian, family-style meal.
The concept of 'Pulcinella' derives from commedia dell’arte, or Italian comedy, a form of professional theatre that was popular between the 16th and 18th century in Europe. Pulcinella is a stock character in Italian comedy that is usually depicted as a simple man who, through adversity, always comes out with a smile; a clown archetype. As you walk in you’ll notice the decor consists of many clowns in a cozy, dimly lit room. In true New Orleans fashion, the table centerpieces are made up of one-of-a-kind clown trinkets. The attention to detail is quite impressive, down to the silverware- tasteful and fun. We were instantly charmed by Pulcinella!- food, wine, and whimsy!
The bread is made fresh in house and it is noted! I enjoyed it alongside the (soon to be) famous meatball, one of the appetizers. The meatball is sizable and great for sharing, and rich with flavors that waltz on your palate and make you feel like you have a 'nonna' of your own (surprise, it’s just Chef Matty). Cooked to absolute perfection and served sizzling on a miniature cast iron, this dish really adds to the rustic feeling of Pulcinella!
Before I even made it to the pastas, I knew: I’d found my favorite dish of the evening- the oyster soup. It's creamy, with bold and bright flavors and a tiny kick of spice at the end. One bite included a beautifully fried oyster topped with fennel, the textures and flavors harmonize to create a complex yet well-balanced dish. I would simply eat it by the gallon. Executive Chef Matty Hayes really outdid himself.
The selection of pastas, also made fresh in house, includes a classic cavatelli alla Norma, a seafood cannelloni filled with crab, ricotta and shrimp and a bold pasta all'amatriciana. Of these three we tried two, with the seafood cannelloni taking the cake. Fresh cannelloni are hard to find in town, and this seafood take made me wish I’d gotten a serving just for myself. This dish was playful, elevated and well composed. The shrimp were tender, flavorful and perfectly seasoned with chili crisps. You will certainly always taste the difference between fresh and store-bought pasta, and Pulcinella! did not disappoint.
For our entree we tried the grilled steak tagliata and the smoked pork steak. The steak and smashed potatoes are classic, and I will be adding Pulcinella to my list of steak stops. Both were healthy portions and we were able to share amongst our small group. The pork was paired with a bright and acidic sauce made up of olive oil, pickled papaccelle peppers and a hint of anchovies.
In the words of owner, Bella Blue “Pulcinella is dedicated to serving the denizens of the 7th Ward, long term transplants who have the heart of a local, tourists who are willing to trust the suggestion of a local, our fellow service industry workers, entertainers, and Italians who are always looking for a classic meal that reminds them of their mom.”
Pulcinella is open Thursday through Monday from 5:30 until 10pm. Check out their website here.
Review by Gia Martinez
Pulcinella! is a new Italian restaurant located in the heart of the historic 7th ward in New Orleans, Louisiana. This locally-owned restaurant offers its guests a wide array of home-style Italian dishes with some modern influences. Owners Bella Blue, Andrew Principe, JD Solomon and Executive Chef Matty Hayes have come together to carefully curate this quaint establishment for patrons to enjoy a big, Italian, family-style meal.
The concept of 'Pulcinella' derives from commedia dell’arte, or Italian comedy, a form of professional theatre that was popular between the 16th and 18th century in Europe. Pulcinella is a stock character in Italian comedy that is usually depicted as a simple man who, through adversity, always comes out with a smile; a clown archetype. As you walk in you’ll notice the decor consists of many clowns in a cozy, dimly lit room. In true New Orleans fashion, the table centerpieces are made up of one-of-a-kind clown trinkets. The attention to detail is quite impressive, down to the silverware- tasteful and fun. We were instantly charmed by Pulcinella!- food, wine, and whimsy!
The bread is made fresh in house and it is noted! I enjoyed it alongside the (soon to be) famous meatball, one of the appetizers. The meatball is sizable and great for sharing, and rich with flavors that waltz on your palate and make you feel like you have a 'nonna' of your own (surprise, it’s just Chef Matty). Cooked to absolute perfection and served sizzling on a miniature cast iron, this dish really adds to the rustic feeling of Pulcinella!
Before I even made it to the pastas, I knew: I’d found my favorite dish of the evening- the oyster soup. It's creamy, with bold and bright flavors and a tiny kick of spice at the end. One bite included a beautifully fried oyster topped with fennel, the textures and flavors harmonize to create a complex yet well-balanced dish. I would simply eat it by the gallon. Executive Chef Matty Hayes really outdid himself.
The selection of pastas, also made fresh in house, includes a classic cavatelli alla Norma, a seafood cannelloni filled with crab, ricotta and shrimp and a bold pasta all'amatriciana. Of these three we tried two, with the seafood cannelloni taking the cake. Fresh cannelloni are hard to find in town, and this seafood take made me wish I’d gotten a serving just for myself. This dish was playful, elevated and well composed. The shrimp were tender, flavorful and perfectly seasoned with chili crisps. You will certainly always taste the difference between fresh and store-bought pasta, and Pulcinella! did not disappoint.
For our entree we tried the grilled steak tagliata and the smoked pork steak. The steak and smashed potatoes are classic, and I will be adding Pulcinella to my list of steak stops. Both were healthy portions and we were able to share amongst our small group. The pork was paired with a bright and acidic sauce made up of olive oil, pickled papaccelle peppers and a hint of anchovies.
In the words of owner, Bella Blue “Pulcinella is dedicated to serving the denizens of the 7th Ward, long term transplants who have the heart of a local, tourists who are willing to trust the suggestion of a local, our fellow service industry workers, entertainers, and Italians who are always looking for a classic meal that reminds them of their mom.”
Pulcinella is open Thursday through Monday from 5:30 until 10pm. Check out their website here.