A dose of heaven: the dosas at Tava in the CBD
Tava
Talking about Indian restaurants always makes me think of a famous skit on UK TV by the British-Indian sketch group Goodness Gracious Me. A group of Indian friends ‘go for an English’ in Bombay, parodying the Brits famed drunken love for late night curries in almost every UK town. “Bring me the blandest thing on the menu!” one of them cockily shouts at the waiter. “It wouldn’t be a Friday night if we didn't go for an English”, etc.
As a British expatriate in New Orleans, I’ve long thought that a good quality Indian restaurant downtown would do great business. Perhaps I’m bringing my own personal biases to the table, but you have a population predisposed to spicy food, plus it really is the perfect hangover/end of night booze-soaker-upper.
Although I don’t think they’re really aiming at the post-bar crowd, there IS a new Indian food option in the CBD. It’s aiming at a more refined demographic, and forgoes old-school aesthetics for a bracingly modern, sleek look. There’s an open kitchen and a chef’s bar that lets you see the kitchen staff working their magic, and the color palate is bold with blues and reds, with a striking mural of psychedelic peacocks by local artist Rebeka Skela.
The early-evening crowd is mostly young professionals chowing down after a day at the office, or young couples grabbing a bite before a concert or the theater. It’s a casual space, with excited chatter floating across the room and a lively atmosphere that is easy to lean into.
The cocktail program really stands out, incorporating as it does the Indian flavors of the menu. The Curry Mule has curry leaf and spicy ginger beer, and masala bitters liven up an Old Fashioned. There’s a delicious Mango Cardamom Daiquiri and a Hurricane with pomegranate and tamarind. The compact wine list delivers a well-thought out selection and Indian lagers are a very welcome addition to the beer roster.
Chef Manish Patel has made a conscious effort to avoid Indian restaurant staples such as butter chicken and biryani, and instead chooses to celebrate the dosa. His mantra of ‘rip it and dip it’ means that the crispy, chewy dosas come with variations such as masala potatoes, lamb vindaloo or garbanzo bean curry. There’s also a cup of lentil soup and coconut chutney for all of that dipping. In a city where people’s chicken sandwich preferences are a very serious business, Tava has one with a spicy garlic slaw that can confidently join the fray. If you’re more of a wings fan, here they come with spicy kashmiri chili, and even tater tots enjoy lashings of chutney.
Look, I love curry, and I’d do almost anything for a spot that serves up a decent lamb rogan josh, but Tava is a great option for a quick, casual bite before your evening begins. This doesn’t mean any relaxing of standards by any means, and the unusual ingredients and innovative cocktails make for a memorable meal, and one that fans of Indian food won’t want to pass up.
Paul Oswell
Tava website
Talking about Indian restaurants always makes me think of a famous skit on UK TV by the British-Indian sketch group Goodness Gracious Me. A group of Indian friends ‘go for an English’ in Bombay, parodying the Brits famed drunken love for late night curries in almost every UK town. “Bring me the blandest thing on the menu!” one of them cockily shouts at the waiter. “It wouldn’t be a Friday night if we didn't go for an English”, etc.
As a British expatriate in New Orleans, I’ve long thought that a good quality Indian restaurant downtown would do great business. Perhaps I’m bringing my own personal biases to the table, but you have a population predisposed to spicy food, plus it really is the perfect hangover/end of night booze-soaker-upper.
Although I don’t think they’re really aiming at the post-bar crowd, there IS a new Indian food option in the CBD. It’s aiming at a more refined demographic, and forgoes old-school aesthetics for a bracingly modern, sleek look. There’s an open kitchen and a chef’s bar that lets you see the kitchen staff working their magic, and the color palate is bold with blues and reds, with a striking mural of psychedelic peacocks by local artist Rebeka Skela.
The early-evening crowd is mostly young professionals chowing down after a day at the office, or young couples grabbing a bite before a concert or the theater. It’s a casual space, with excited chatter floating across the room and a lively atmosphere that is easy to lean into.
The cocktail program really stands out, incorporating as it does the Indian flavors of the menu. The Curry Mule has curry leaf and spicy ginger beer, and masala bitters liven up an Old Fashioned. There’s a delicious Mango Cardamom Daiquiri and a Hurricane with pomegranate and tamarind. The compact wine list delivers a well-thought out selection and Indian lagers are a very welcome addition to the beer roster.
Chef Manish Patel has made a conscious effort to avoid Indian restaurant staples such as butter chicken and biryani, and instead chooses to celebrate the dosa. His mantra of ‘rip it and dip it’ means that the crispy, chewy dosas come with variations such as masala potatoes, lamb vindaloo or garbanzo bean curry. There’s also a cup of lentil soup and coconut chutney for all of that dipping. In a city where people’s chicken sandwich preferences are a very serious business, Tava has one with a spicy garlic slaw that can confidently join the fray. If you’re more of a wings fan, here they come with spicy kashmiri chili, and even tater tots enjoy lashings of chutney.
Look, I love curry, and I’d do almost anything for a spot that serves up a decent lamb rogan josh, but Tava is a great option for a quick, casual bite before your evening begins. This doesn’t mean any relaxing of standards by any means, and the unusual ingredients and innovative cocktails make for a memorable meal, and one that fans of Indian food won’t want to pass up.
Paul Oswell
Tava website
