Industry plants: the welcome greenery of The Bower
The Bower
Review by Paul Oswell
Magazine Street is spookily quiet, the first mists of Fall descending as we arrive for dinner on a dark Tuesday evening. It makes the dining room of The Bower even more striking. Its atmospheric lighting reveals what looks like an industrial space that’s being slowly reclaimed by nature, foliage and greenery softening the edges to give it a pseudo-futuristic ambience.
This bold curation of the decor foreshadows the thoughtful approach of executive chef Marcus Woodham (as well as beverage director Mickey Mullins), a factor that becomes more apparent with the menus.
Before the food, there’s Mr Mullins’ intriguing featured cocktail list, organized by zodiac sign. This is a clever way of directing choice as surely most people will want to try their sign’s cocktail, even just out of curiosity. We dutifully acquiesced to the Leo (vodka with hibiscus and lime notes) and the Sagittarius (tequila with passion fruit and smoked salt).
The food options are focused and cohesive, a modern American and European menu that feels like it’s been carefully edited down to its essentials. Small plate appetizers offer the most choice, including a truffled parmesan bread with honey that is dangerously moreish, and a lumped crab hummus with spiced lemon oil that deftly cuts through the creaminess and can be scooped up with crisp, poppadom-like crackers.
There are just three large plates, all classics, lining up like confident prizefighters: gulf fish, chicken parmesan and braised short rib. We were lured in by the house made pastas, though. Louisiana crab in a lemon and dill cream came out on radiatore (radiator-shaped noodles) and shells of conchiglie with duck and pork meatballs. Hearty, plentiful, and balanced to within an inch of their lives, they hit just the right note as Fall was making its presence felt.
Sadly, the strawberry shortcake dessert was demolished far too quickly for me to form any opinions beyond extreme contentedness, but I hear great things about their flourless chocolate torte, and the charcuterie board looked like a good bet if you’re popping in for some casual grazing and a glass of wine.
If you wanted to free yourself from the astrological drink suggestions and explore The Bower’s extensive wine list, you can go any number of ways. There were about 100 bottles listed, including a notable selection of chilled reds and those orange wines that seem to be having a moment.
A place like The Bower could be a fairly run of the mill contemporary restaurant, but a combination of unexpected choices - the aesthetics, the themed cocktail list, the focused menu - create a more lasting impression. There’s a quiet assurance to Chef Woodham’s restaurant, a subtle confidence that underpins the food, drinks and the service. I’ll be the bower here, and tip a figurative hat to a concept that’s been impressively and satisfyingly executed.
The Bower website
Review by Paul Oswell
Magazine Street is spookily quiet, the first mists of Fall descending as we arrive for dinner on a dark Tuesday evening. It makes the dining room of The Bower even more striking. Its atmospheric lighting reveals what looks like an industrial space that’s being slowly reclaimed by nature, foliage and greenery softening the edges to give it a pseudo-futuristic ambience.
This bold curation of the decor foreshadows the thoughtful approach of executive chef Marcus Woodham (as well as beverage director Mickey Mullins), a factor that becomes more apparent with the menus.
Before the food, there’s Mr Mullins’ intriguing featured cocktail list, organized by zodiac sign. This is a clever way of directing choice as surely most people will want to try their sign’s cocktail, even just out of curiosity. We dutifully acquiesced to the Leo (vodka with hibiscus and lime notes) and the Sagittarius (tequila with passion fruit and smoked salt).
The food options are focused and cohesive, a modern American and European menu that feels like it’s been carefully edited down to its essentials. Small plate appetizers offer the most choice, including a truffled parmesan bread with honey that is dangerously moreish, and a lumped crab hummus with spiced lemon oil that deftly cuts through the creaminess and can be scooped up with crisp, poppadom-like crackers.
There are just three large plates, all classics, lining up like confident prizefighters: gulf fish, chicken parmesan and braised short rib. We were lured in by the house made pastas, though. Louisiana crab in a lemon and dill cream came out on radiatore (radiator-shaped noodles) and shells of conchiglie with duck and pork meatballs. Hearty, plentiful, and balanced to within an inch of their lives, they hit just the right note as Fall was making its presence felt.
Sadly, the strawberry shortcake dessert was demolished far too quickly for me to form any opinions beyond extreme contentedness, but I hear great things about their flourless chocolate torte, and the charcuterie board looked like a good bet if you’re popping in for some casual grazing and a glass of wine.
If you wanted to free yourself from the astrological drink suggestions and explore The Bower’s extensive wine list, you can go any number of ways. There were about 100 bottles listed, including a notable selection of chilled reds and those orange wines that seem to be having a moment.
A place like The Bower could be a fairly run of the mill contemporary restaurant, but a combination of unexpected choices - the aesthetics, the themed cocktail list, the focused menu - create a more lasting impression. There’s a quiet assurance to Chef Woodham’s restaurant, a subtle confidence that underpins the food, drinks and the service. I’ll be the bower here, and tip a figurative hat to a concept that’s been impressively and satisfyingly executed.
The Bower website
