Jazzing it up: Poolside at The Frenchmen Hotel (Image: The Frenchmen Hotel)

​The Frenchmen Hotel
Review by Paul Oswell

Despite names such as ‘Tchoupitoulas’ existing in New Orleans, ‘Frenchmen’ has to be one of the most mis-spelled street names, many people reducing it to a single Gallic male instead of the plural. I only noticed it myself after a couple of months of living on the street myself. I stayed on Frenchmen when I first moved here in the early 2000s, when it was still very much ‘where the locals go’, the full Bourbonification still some years away. I lived in a third storey apartment, above some members of the band Edward Sharpe and the Magnetic Zeros. I never saw the lead singers, so I guess it was just a couple of Magnetic Zeros. 

It’s interesting to go back some 20 years later as a hotel guest. Some spots are the same - the old jazz clubs are mostly still thriving - but there’s a definite influx of generic bars and more tourists. Said hotel is The Frenchmen Hotel, which looked a little tired in 2003, but was excitingly reborn with a full refurbishment and facelift heading into 2023. 

This adorable boutique property is as cool as a lilting clarinet solo, being located as it is at the beating heart of New Orleans’ jazz music scene. Step outside this Creole bolthole and you immediately know where you are. Being at the southern end of the city's most musical thoroughfare will please music fans no end, but be advised that the soundtrack is present most of the day and into the night, so it’s not for light sleepers.

There’s an almost Caribbean feel to the décor from the get-go, with large colourful paintings brightening the lobby area, and palm fronds framing the lush courtyard out back, with its dipping pool and hot tub. Painted wooden balconies and doors, cobbled pathways and sweet-smelling flora give off an elevated rustic ambience. All of this is complemented by the sound of trumpet solos drifting in over the rooftops, and winding down is almost impossible to resist.

Even though you’re booking into a hotel on a downtown street, there’s something of a resort-style atmosphere as soon as you walk through the doors. It could be the music or just the laid-back approach but the friendliness of the staff is exemplary and you’re on first name terms right away.

Local music recommendations are posted up in the lobby, and there’s a fridge with refreshments and cocktail fixings as well as a laptop for guest use. The shady courtyard is a godsend and its dipping pool and hot tub are made for relaxing afternoons. There’s also a pleasant roof terrace for evening drinks and general lounging.

My Queen Room was one of 20 or so that framed the courtyard, each one an almost miniature Creole Cottage in themselves. The painted wooden doors and tiled floors gave it a fairly rustic feel, which was accentuated by the exposed brick fireplace and flue of the interior. Wicker headboards and tile mosaics in the bathroom are complemented by island scenes in the artwork, highlighting the often-missed Caribbean influences that abound in this city. A walk-in shower and sitting area are the other touches, but it’s a back-to-basics feel done well enough to transport you from the immediate urban surroundings. 

The aforementioned lobby fridge has soft drinks, beers, wine and basic cocktail ingredients, and is accessible 24/7 (items are chargeable). Outside of this, there’s free coffee available at all times, and in the mornings a continental breakfast of bagels, pastries and cereals, all included in the room rate. For anything more substantial, guests need to head out into the world, but given that the French Quarter and all its culinary delights are mere footsteps away, this isn’t too much of a hardship and staff are more than happy to give recommendations.

If you don’t mind the jazz and brass band soundtrack, then it’s actually a good spot for families exploring downtown, and while the pool isn’t big enough to swim lengths in, it’s good enough to cool down in.

The hotel also has its own bar, Tiki Tok, which as you might imagine, serves up cocktails that edge towards the tropical. Expect thatched umbrellas, neon-flavored drinks and enough rum to sink a pirate ship. The jazz soundtrack, which wafts in on warm southern breezes as you sip, doesn’t hurt the ambiance. 

The Frenchmen is a great spot if you like a character-forward, low key hotel, and you’re really in the mix if you’re a visiting music fan, or a local looking for a change of scenery for the weekend. 

The Frenchmen Hotel website