THE OUT ALL DAY GUIDE TO NEW ORLEANS' NEIGHBORHOODS:
THE UPPER 9TH WARD
Where to go, eat, drink and shop in New Orleans. The best local, independent businesses.
Clockwise from top left: N7, Jamaican Jerk House, Chance in Hell Snoballs, Dancing Grounds, Saturn Bar
THE UPPER 9th WARD
This guide covers the area framed by St Claude Avenue, Poland Avenue, Florida Avenue and Almonaster Avenue, incorporating the Saint Claude, Florida and Musician's Village neighborhoods.
Caught between train tracks and the canal, residents are only too painfully aware of the chances of being trapped by locomotives and moveable bridges. The Saint Claude corridor is home to most of the local businesses, and there's some weird and wonderful finds, from the best Jamaican food in the city to macabre clothing stores.
*Neighborhood boundaries and the like are constantly argued over, and I’m not presenting this guide as the authority, just a casual round-up of places in the general area called The Upper 9th Ward. Google Map here.
Guide by Paul Oswell
Caught between train tracks and the canal, residents are only too painfully aware of the chances of being trapped by locomotives and moveable bridges. The Saint Claude corridor is home to most of the local businesses, and there's some weird and wonderful finds, from the best Jamaican food in the city to macabre clothing stores.
*Neighborhood boundaries and the like are constantly argued over, and I’m not presenting this guide as the authority, just a casual round-up of places in the general area called The Upper 9th Ward. Google Map here.
Guide by Paul Oswell
Shops
Boka Bikes
4233 St Claude Ave
My go-to shop for tune-ups, repairs and accessories. Always good value, with a quick, personal service. My bike is kind of a Frankenstein-ed model that they built, and two years later, I still really love it. They always have a decent range of models for sale and they recently also branched out into vintage clothing. Website
Harold’s Indoor Outdoor Plants
1135 Press St
If you’re a plant person, it’s hard to walk out of here without blowing stacks of money. Plants as far as the eye can see, with plenty of affordable options. Great staff are knowledgeable and friendly, even with amateurs like me. Website
Private Collections Boutique
Ostensibly this is a womens’ clothing store just across from Keys gas station on Poland Avenue. I have never seen anyone go in or out, and it looks like it’s part of someone’s house. The window displays are gloriously creepy. Facebook page
RUBARB Community Bike Shop
2239 Piety St
In their own words: “We are a community bike shop that runs entirely by volunteers. We all participate in making the space, tools and parts organized and accessible, and any money that is received goes toward the needs of the shop. Our primary goal is to provide adequate tools and competent help to meet the needs of those who desire to build and repair bikes. RUBARB is an educational space where we all can share and learn from each other’s skills and experiences.” Sounds good to me! Website
Eat and Drink
Bywater Snowballs & Snacks
Colorful sno-ball stand with idiosyncratic hours, so check before you make a journey.
“It's definitely worth stopping by. They have floats, snowballs, sundaes, snacks, chicken fingers, fried food, etc. (The) strawberry cheesecake flavored snowball had ice cream on top and it was delicious.” (Seasonal opening hours) Instagram
Chance in Hell Snoballs
3525 St Claude Ave
Come for the eclectic flavors, stay for the cute dogs, but make sure to check their Instagram (@chanceinhell_snoballs) to check their hours. “Great sno balls with interesting well curated flavors. Staff are super friendly.” (Seasonal opening hours) Instagram
Jamaican Jerk House
4017 St Claude Ave
I eat here at least twice a month. Enormous portions and delicious sides, I’m a huge fan of the curried chicken, brown stew and Jamaican mac n’ cheese, but it’s all great. You can read a full review right here. Website
Junction Bar & Grill
3021 St Claude Ave
Fun little spot with an impressive line in craft beers and delightful burger variations. 40 beers on tap, and the burger menu has regionally-themed sandwiches from New York to New Mexico. The Tijuana Wings also hit the spot for me. Website
Lowpoint
1301 Poland Ave
Formerly ‘Solo Espresso’, this low-key coffee shop isn’t the cheapest, but the beans are high quality and if you’re a coffee afficionado, you’ll likely be impressed. Weirdly, it doesn’t offer wifi, but maybe that’s more social. Instagram
Malimo
4223 St Claude Ave
My personal favorite local coffee spot, with super friendly staff and a great line in vegan confections. They exhibit local artists along the walls and the playlist is mellow, melancholic indie and folk, which (for me) is perfect for working to. Beans are roasted on site and it’s just how a neighborhood coffee spot should be.
N7
1117 Montegut St,
This high-concept restaurant was a little controversial when it opened, as it infamously served tins of seafood to the table. They have scaled back that aspect of things, and the hidden depths of the menu have been allowed to shine a little more. The cinematic terrace is one of the city’s most evocative spots to dine in, and the wine and cocktail lists are always intriguing. I like this place for a memorable, special occasion meal. Website
Okay Bar
1700 Port St
Cute, retro-looking, bijoux neighborhood bar with cheap drinks, a very nice line in tacos and a large outdoor beer garden/yard. Dance parties and live music are in the mix. Instagram
Poppas Seafood & Deli
3311 N Galvez St
Typical city seafood spot in that it’s super casual and would be hailed as an outstanding find in any other city. Here, we have dozens of them, but it doesn’t mean that they’re not great value or good quality. “I love the food here! It's very reasonably priced, tastes great, and is all cooked by locals! My favorite: the Seafood Poboy stuffed with catfish, shrimp & oysters, that all taste like they SHOULD!”
Saturn Bar
3067 St Claude Ave
Beloved neighborhood bar with popular dance party nights such as Mod Dance Party. It’s what New Orleans dive bars should be like…dark, a little rough around the edges, and the walls lined with memorabilia and the stench of bad decisions. Long may it live. Instagram
Stuph'D Beignets & Burgers
3325 St Claude Ave
This place came from Gentilly, where the kitchen used to serve up fried-to-order beignets bursting with savory or sweet fillings. Just about everything on the menu is served “stuph’d” with fillings such as Creole crawfish, shrimp, crabmeat, Philly cheesesteak, grilled vegetables and hot sausage, together with American cheese. A fun twist on a local classic. Instagram
Misc
Dancing Grounds
3705 St Claude Ave,
I know people that work at and love this place, but given I’m rhythmically challenged, I’ll defer to their own blurb: “Dancing Grounds is a community-driven dance studio that strives to support talented dance students of all ages and levels in New Orleans. We offer a variety of classes and lessons for adults and youth. The studio is passionate and dedicated to providing dance education and performance to students, teachers, and audiences throughout the city.” Website
Farming New Orleans/Fruits of Desire Community Garden
I don’t know much about this spot, so again, deferring to their own description: “Started in 2015, we have been acquiring lots in the Upper and Lower Ninth Ward and planting fruit trees and vegetable gardens. We currently have 5 lots and over 50 trees!” Website
Keys
4401 N Robertson St
This may be a chain gas station, but given that this is Louisiana, you just know that their kitchen is solid. The fried chicken, meat pies and gumbo are all up to snuff, and given that it’s within stumbling distance of my house, it’s a trusted spot for food-forward hangover cures.
Odile Davis Park
3000 Law St
There’s not much green space in the Upper 9th, and this small square near Florida Avenue is really as park-like as it gets.
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Boka Bikes
4233 St Claude Ave
My go-to shop for tune-ups, repairs and accessories. Always good value, with a quick, personal service. My bike is kind of a Frankenstein-ed model that they built, and two years later, I still really love it. They always have a decent range of models for sale and they recently also branched out into vintage clothing. Website
Harold’s Indoor Outdoor Plants
1135 Press St
If you’re a plant person, it’s hard to walk out of here without blowing stacks of money. Plants as far as the eye can see, with plenty of affordable options. Great staff are knowledgeable and friendly, even with amateurs like me. Website
Private Collections Boutique
Ostensibly this is a womens’ clothing store just across from Keys gas station on Poland Avenue. I have never seen anyone go in or out, and it looks like it’s part of someone’s house. The window displays are gloriously creepy. Facebook page
RUBARB Community Bike Shop
2239 Piety St
In their own words: “We are a community bike shop that runs entirely by volunteers. We all participate in making the space, tools and parts organized and accessible, and any money that is received goes toward the needs of the shop. Our primary goal is to provide adequate tools and competent help to meet the needs of those who desire to build and repair bikes. RUBARB is an educational space where we all can share and learn from each other’s skills and experiences.” Sounds good to me! Website
Eat and Drink
Bywater Snowballs & Snacks
Colorful sno-ball stand with idiosyncratic hours, so check before you make a journey.
“It's definitely worth stopping by. They have floats, snowballs, sundaes, snacks, chicken fingers, fried food, etc. (The) strawberry cheesecake flavored snowball had ice cream on top and it was delicious.” (Seasonal opening hours) Instagram
Chance in Hell Snoballs
3525 St Claude Ave
Come for the eclectic flavors, stay for the cute dogs, but make sure to check their Instagram (@chanceinhell_snoballs) to check their hours. “Great sno balls with interesting well curated flavors. Staff are super friendly.” (Seasonal opening hours) Instagram
Jamaican Jerk House
4017 St Claude Ave
I eat here at least twice a month. Enormous portions and delicious sides, I’m a huge fan of the curried chicken, brown stew and Jamaican mac n’ cheese, but it’s all great. You can read a full review right here. Website
Junction Bar & Grill
3021 St Claude Ave
Fun little spot with an impressive line in craft beers and delightful burger variations. 40 beers on tap, and the burger menu has regionally-themed sandwiches from New York to New Mexico. The Tijuana Wings also hit the spot for me. Website
Lowpoint
1301 Poland Ave
Formerly ‘Solo Espresso’, this low-key coffee shop isn’t the cheapest, but the beans are high quality and if you’re a coffee afficionado, you’ll likely be impressed. Weirdly, it doesn’t offer wifi, but maybe that’s more social. Instagram
Malimo
4223 St Claude Ave
My personal favorite local coffee spot, with super friendly staff and a great line in vegan confections. They exhibit local artists along the walls and the playlist is mellow, melancholic indie and folk, which (for me) is perfect for working to. Beans are roasted on site and it’s just how a neighborhood coffee spot should be.
N7
1117 Montegut St,
This high-concept restaurant was a little controversial when it opened, as it infamously served tins of seafood to the table. They have scaled back that aspect of things, and the hidden depths of the menu have been allowed to shine a little more. The cinematic terrace is one of the city’s most evocative spots to dine in, and the wine and cocktail lists are always intriguing. I like this place for a memorable, special occasion meal. Website
Okay Bar
1700 Port St
Cute, retro-looking, bijoux neighborhood bar with cheap drinks, a very nice line in tacos and a large outdoor beer garden/yard. Dance parties and live music are in the mix. Instagram
Poppas Seafood & Deli
3311 N Galvez St
Typical city seafood spot in that it’s super casual and would be hailed as an outstanding find in any other city. Here, we have dozens of them, but it doesn’t mean that they’re not great value or good quality. “I love the food here! It's very reasonably priced, tastes great, and is all cooked by locals! My favorite: the Seafood Poboy stuffed with catfish, shrimp & oysters, that all taste like they SHOULD!”
Saturn Bar
3067 St Claude Ave
Beloved neighborhood bar with popular dance party nights such as Mod Dance Party. It’s what New Orleans dive bars should be like…dark, a little rough around the edges, and the walls lined with memorabilia and the stench of bad decisions. Long may it live. Instagram
Stuph'D Beignets & Burgers
3325 St Claude Ave
This place came from Gentilly, where the kitchen used to serve up fried-to-order beignets bursting with savory or sweet fillings. Just about everything on the menu is served “stuph’d” with fillings such as Creole crawfish, shrimp, crabmeat, Philly cheesesteak, grilled vegetables and hot sausage, together with American cheese. A fun twist on a local classic. Instagram
Misc
Dancing Grounds
3705 St Claude Ave,
I know people that work at and love this place, but given I’m rhythmically challenged, I’ll defer to their own blurb: “Dancing Grounds is a community-driven dance studio that strives to support talented dance students of all ages and levels in New Orleans. We offer a variety of classes and lessons for adults and youth. The studio is passionate and dedicated to providing dance education and performance to students, teachers, and audiences throughout the city.” Website
Farming New Orleans/Fruits of Desire Community Garden
I don’t know much about this spot, so again, deferring to their own description: “Started in 2015, we have been acquiring lots in the Upper and Lower Ninth Ward and planting fruit trees and vegetable gardens. We currently have 5 lots and over 50 trees!” Website
Keys
4401 N Robertson St
This may be a chain gas station, but given that this is Louisiana, you just know that their kitchen is solid. The fried chicken, meat pies and gumbo are all up to snuff, and given that it’s within stumbling distance of my house, it’s a trusted spot for food-forward hangover cures.
Odile Davis Park
3000 Law St
There’s not much green space in the Upper 9th, and this small square near Florida Avenue is really as park-like as it gets.
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