Welcome In: Maggie Scales, La Boulangerie / Link Restaurant Group
Interview by Paul Oswell
OAD: Hello, Chef! Could you quickly introduce yourself? Where do you work/what's your position or title and how long have you been there?
MS: I'm Maggie Scales, and I'm the Executive Pastry Chef at Link Restaurant Group and a partner at La Boulangerie. I’ve been with the company for 10 years.
How would you describe the cuisine that you serve? Would you say there's a philosophy or concept behind the restaurant?
Being at the end of the dining experience, desserts in my opinion have to be something to compliment the rest of the meal. More than anything, desserts should be something that you want to dive into when they are set in front of you and never should you be afraid to eat a little bit of it with your hands.
Let's go back...what are your earliest memories of making food or being around meals being prepared?
Both my parents were amazing cooks. They held dinner parties often among their friends and every holiday in our house was a huge extravagant meal. My mom was a protege of Martha Stewart (in her mind) and it quickly passed to me. Cheesecake was the best dessert we made together and at every restaurant we would try theirs to see how ours compared.
Was there a decisive moment that made you think: "I can go professional!"? How did you feel when you made that life choice?
In 2005, I took a class with Wolfgang Puck’s Pastry Chef Mary Bergin at Cambridge School for Culinary Arts in Boston. It was a full weekend of classes - making pies, cakes, frostings. I took this class and thought, “I can do this.” It wasn’t overly hard for me to follow her class and my end products, although rough, were right on par. When I got my first job as a pastry cook at a restaurant in South Boston, it felt natural. I never felt out of place or nervous.
Where did you learn your trade? Who were your early inspirations or mentors?
At Cambridge Culinary, our chef was a tough French chef who had done it all. He made it look easy and instilled on us that we can be as creative as we want with the ingredients we have. When I started working professionally, Lydia Shire and her pastry chef Killian Weigland taught me everything about restaurant desserts. Working for Donald and Stephen, they taught me entirely about the business of restaurants and also how to cook with your gut. Make a dessert that you would want to eat and most people will also.
Tell us about the time that you had any responsibility in a restaurant, how were you feeling?
The few days before we opened La Boulangerie and I realized that I was the cruise director of this ship, I was nervous and overwhelmed. But knowing that I had the support of Donald, Stephen and Bill, that helped carry me through. It wasn’t all smooth-sailing, but the fact that they were in my corner encouraging me the whole time was incredible.
How is the New Orleans food scene different to where you spent your formative years?
I moved to New Orleans from Boston in 2011. Although Boston has changed quite a bit since then, at the time it was really hard to break through as a cook or pastry cook. There were a number of powerhouse chefs that had been successful and as a young upcomer, it was hard to make a name for yourself. When I visited New Orleans, I was amazed by how every chef, pastry chef, cook, restaurant owner, etc were respected. Also, the culture of food in New Orleans is obviously unsurpassed. People here love talking about food as much as we enjoy making it.
What's the most esoteric/out there dish you've ever put on a menu? What's the weirdest thing you've ever tasted?
Inheriting the Elvis King Cake was a strange one. Peanut Butter and Bananas in a King Cake with Marshmallow and lardons on top? But it works and is successful. Elvis knew what he was doing. Not super strange, but a few years ago Chef Rene Bejeaux (RIP) made a snail dish at Bistrot Rene that was out of my comfort zone, but it was delicious!
Do you spend a lot of time experimenting when you're not working? Do you try out areas of cuisine that you're not traditionally associated with or that you're less familiar with?
I love a challenge. I love trying new things. Some work out great, some not so much. The bummer about pastry is that when you try something new, it generally takes a few days to put it all together and find out how it’s going to be. Ideally, you spend 2 days working on something new and it works out great and it can go on a menu. But after two days, it stinks and you have to go back to the drawing board, it can be frustrating. When we opened Gianna, Italian desserts weren’t something I was familiar with (and am still learning!). There were definitely lots of failures, but we created a successful dessert menu that we continue to work on.
Time to name some names. Where do you like to go for fancy feasts, casual bites, and cocktails?
Lilette - Definitely for fancy feasts. I go all out on their menu and their wine list, and I love their desserts.
Zasu - Sue is the best and she’s never made anything that I don’t love. She even makes good desserts!
Saffron - Every. Single. Cocktail. And everything on the menu works perfectly.
What's the most memorable eating experience you've ever had? Michelin starred joint, hole in the wall secret, family celebration?
Bistrot Paul Bert in Paris was beyond. They have an Il Flotante that is absolutely incredible. Recently, I had an octopus starter at Tana in Old Metairie that was so memorable. I think about it all the time.
You're at home. Maybe you've had a couple of cocktails, maybe you're feeling lazy, maybe you need some quick comfort. What are you making away from the public glare? Give us your guiltiest, messiest pleasures and don't skip any details.
Ramen. At least two to three nights a week, I’m eating ramen. I’ll throw some avocado, salmon and sriracha in it, but nevertheless, it takes 4 minutes to make and brings endless happiness.
Where are your favorite food cities outside of New Orleans?
Boston of course. Seattle also has awesome bakeries that I love to visit. Recently I was overwhelmed by all the amazing restaurants in Los Angeles, but managed to eat at some of the best, and I can’t wait to revisit Paris and continue my eating adventure.
Are you a big produce/farmers' market person? Do you go out and source ingredients yourself? Do you grow your own herbs, spices or produce?
I love that the farms are so connected to the restaurants. Using Compostella arugula on our salads at La Boulangarie or Corona Farm strawberries and Isabelle’s Citrus for our desserts makes a huge and noticeable difference in the end product. The farmers and vendors are so great about keeping us in the loop about what they have in season and for how long. I can grow some pretty beautiful flowers, but produce has been my kryptonite. I leave it to the professionals.
You have an unlimited budget for a private chef-catered meal for you and your loved ones. Who's cooking (anyone at all - contemporary/historic/fictional), what are they serving and where are you eating?
Julia Child. No other person. Julia is making Beef Bourguignon and Chocolate mousse. And she’ll make Coq au Vin just for fun.
I love food/restaurant-set movies and TV shows. Do you have any go-to food media?
The Bear makes me incredibly uncomfortable. Similarly, the Great British Baking Show makes my blood pressure rise. So, no - not great with food TV. Instagram is a go-to for me. I’m amazed by all the creativity that exists out there. I’m constantly mouth agape, saying “why didn’t I think of that”?
How else do you relax, besides getting as much sleep as possible?
Spending time with my family (Diego, Leo age 10, Gabriel age 8 and Charlie Brown the chocolate lab). I spend a lot of time doing crossword puzzles and reading. In the summer, every afternoon is at Ro-bear’s snowballs in Harahan and swimming.
OK, leave us with one kitchen tip/secret hack.
Invest in solid footwear and stretch everyday. It makes getting older just the slightest bit easier.
La Boulangerie - click here for the website
or
Click here for the Link Group restaurants
Interview by Paul Oswell
OAD: Hello, Chef! Could you quickly introduce yourself? Where do you work/what's your position or title and how long have you been there?
MS: I'm Maggie Scales, and I'm the Executive Pastry Chef at Link Restaurant Group and a partner at La Boulangerie. I’ve been with the company for 10 years.
How would you describe the cuisine that you serve? Would you say there's a philosophy or concept behind the restaurant?
Being at the end of the dining experience, desserts in my opinion have to be something to compliment the rest of the meal. More than anything, desserts should be something that you want to dive into when they are set in front of you and never should you be afraid to eat a little bit of it with your hands.
Let's go back...what are your earliest memories of making food or being around meals being prepared?
Both my parents were amazing cooks. They held dinner parties often among their friends and every holiday in our house was a huge extravagant meal. My mom was a protege of Martha Stewart (in her mind) and it quickly passed to me. Cheesecake was the best dessert we made together and at every restaurant we would try theirs to see how ours compared.
Was there a decisive moment that made you think: "I can go professional!"? How did you feel when you made that life choice?
In 2005, I took a class with Wolfgang Puck’s Pastry Chef Mary Bergin at Cambridge School for Culinary Arts in Boston. It was a full weekend of classes - making pies, cakes, frostings. I took this class and thought, “I can do this.” It wasn’t overly hard for me to follow her class and my end products, although rough, were right on par. When I got my first job as a pastry cook at a restaurant in South Boston, it felt natural. I never felt out of place or nervous.
Where did you learn your trade? Who were your early inspirations or mentors?
At Cambridge Culinary, our chef was a tough French chef who had done it all. He made it look easy and instilled on us that we can be as creative as we want with the ingredients we have. When I started working professionally, Lydia Shire and her pastry chef Killian Weigland taught me everything about restaurant desserts. Working for Donald and Stephen, they taught me entirely about the business of restaurants and also how to cook with your gut. Make a dessert that you would want to eat and most people will also.
Tell us about the time that you had any responsibility in a restaurant, how were you feeling?
The few days before we opened La Boulangerie and I realized that I was the cruise director of this ship, I was nervous and overwhelmed. But knowing that I had the support of Donald, Stephen and Bill, that helped carry me through. It wasn’t all smooth-sailing, but the fact that they were in my corner encouraging me the whole time was incredible.
How is the New Orleans food scene different to where you spent your formative years?
I moved to New Orleans from Boston in 2011. Although Boston has changed quite a bit since then, at the time it was really hard to break through as a cook or pastry cook. There were a number of powerhouse chefs that had been successful and as a young upcomer, it was hard to make a name for yourself. When I visited New Orleans, I was amazed by how every chef, pastry chef, cook, restaurant owner, etc were respected. Also, the culture of food in New Orleans is obviously unsurpassed. People here love talking about food as much as we enjoy making it.
What's the most esoteric/out there dish you've ever put on a menu? What's the weirdest thing you've ever tasted?
Inheriting the Elvis King Cake was a strange one. Peanut Butter and Bananas in a King Cake with Marshmallow and lardons on top? But it works and is successful. Elvis knew what he was doing. Not super strange, but a few years ago Chef Rene Bejeaux (RIP) made a snail dish at Bistrot Rene that was out of my comfort zone, but it was delicious!
Do you spend a lot of time experimenting when you're not working? Do you try out areas of cuisine that you're not traditionally associated with or that you're less familiar with?
I love a challenge. I love trying new things. Some work out great, some not so much. The bummer about pastry is that when you try something new, it generally takes a few days to put it all together and find out how it’s going to be. Ideally, you spend 2 days working on something new and it works out great and it can go on a menu. But after two days, it stinks and you have to go back to the drawing board, it can be frustrating. When we opened Gianna, Italian desserts weren’t something I was familiar with (and am still learning!). There were definitely lots of failures, but we created a successful dessert menu that we continue to work on.
Time to name some names. Where do you like to go for fancy feasts, casual bites, and cocktails?
Lilette - Definitely for fancy feasts. I go all out on their menu and their wine list, and I love their desserts.
Zasu - Sue is the best and she’s never made anything that I don’t love. She even makes good desserts!
Saffron - Every. Single. Cocktail. And everything on the menu works perfectly.
What's the most memorable eating experience you've ever had? Michelin starred joint, hole in the wall secret, family celebration?
Bistrot Paul Bert in Paris was beyond. They have an Il Flotante that is absolutely incredible. Recently, I had an octopus starter at Tana in Old Metairie that was so memorable. I think about it all the time.
You're at home. Maybe you've had a couple of cocktails, maybe you're feeling lazy, maybe you need some quick comfort. What are you making away from the public glare? Give us your guiltiest, messiest pleasures and don't skip any details.
Ramen. At least two to three nights a week, I’m eating ramen. I’ll throw some avocado, salmon and sriracha in it, but nevertheless, it takes 4 minutes to make and brings endless happiness.
Where are your favorite food cities outside of New Orleans?
Boston of course. Seattle also has awesome bakeries that I love to visit. Recently I was overwhelmed by all the amazing restaurants in Los Angeles, but managed to eat at some of the best, and I can’t wait to revisit Paris and continue my eating adventure.
Are you a big produce/farmers' market person? Do you go out and source ingredients yourself? Do you grow your own herbs, spices or produce?
I love that the farms are so connected to the restaurants. Using Compostella arugula on our salads at La Boulangarie or Corona Farm strawberries and Isabelle’s Citrus for our desserts makes a huge and noticeable difference in the end product. The farmers and vendors are so great about keeping us in the loop about what they have in season and for how long. I can grow some pretty beautiful flowers, but produce has been my kryptonite. I leave it to the professionals.
You have an unlimited budget for a private chef-catered meal for you and your loved ones. Who's cooking (anyone at all - contemporary/historic/fictional), what are they serving and where are you eating?
Julia Child. No other person. Julia is making Beef Bourguignon and Chocolate mousse. And she’ll make Coq au Vin just for fun.
I love food/restaurant-set movies and TV shows. Do you have any go-to food media?
The Bear makes me incredibly uncomfortable. Similarly, the Great British Baking Show makes my blood pressure rise. So, no - not great with food TV. Instagram is a go-to for me. I’m amazed by all the creativity that exists out there. I’m constantly mouth agape, saying “why didn’t I think of that”?
How else do you relax, besides getting as much sleep as possible?
Spending time with my family (Diego, Leo age 10, Gabriel age 8 and Charlie Brown the chocolate lab). I spend a lot of time doing crossword puzzles and reading. In the summer, every afternoon is at Ro-bear’s snowballs in Harahan and swimming.
OK, leave us with one kitchen tip/secret hack.
Invest in solid footwear and stretch everyday. It makes getting older just the slightest bit easier.
La Boulangerie - click here for the website
or
Click here for the Link Group restaurants